Lemon Curd Shortbread with Candied Kumquats

4 Jan

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I know you’re like me – looking at this post and wondering who in the hell has time to candy their own kumquats. I once did. I harvested my own kumquats while visiting my parents in Florida and leisurely reduced slivers of them in sugar water until they were sticky. While simmering, I pondered  how interesting it is that sour citrus has high volumes of pectin. I had the backdoor open, barefoot, not wondering (worried or annoyed by) how many times I’d have to wash the Cuisinart while making numerous batches of shortbread. Oh, the holiday.

That was before we were all back into our work shoes and socks …and more socks…layering for this brutal weather and hoping that seasonal depression won’t settle in early this year (I jest – with concern). These are the months I leave in the cold dark morning (hello 18 degrees today!) for the gym  and return home in the cold and dark to my pajamas and recorded Anthony Bourdain shows. Believe it or not, I don’t want to be “forever lazy” as those commercials suggest. As the what-seems-like never-ending regular uniform of pajama pants and slippers seem overwhelmingly depressing, I’ll always have the memory of 70 degree December afternoons spent candying freshly harvested Florida kumquats.

In the meantime, won’t you write me and let me know about your favorite ways to pass the cold dark times and days when all your friends are on annoyingly strict diets?

Save this recipe for when you have time to make short bread and candy kumquats. They are quite beautiful and fairly simple to make. I served them on a long glass tray at my New Year’s Eve Party. Blame the champagne for this tupperware photo as I took none at the party.

Lemon Curd Shortbread with Candied Kumquats from the Heart of an Artichoke and Other Kitchen Journeys by David Tanis

Lemon Curd Shortbread

  • 1 cup flour
  • 2 tablespoons sugar
  • a pinch of salt
  • 8 tablespoons butter (1 stick)
  • 2 eggs
  • 2 egg yolks
  • another 1/2 cup sugar
  • 2 tablespoons corn starch
  • one lemon, zested
  • 1/2 cup lemon juice

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a food processor, combine flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, salt and cold butter. Pulse until the mixture looks like cornmeal. Pour in to a baking pan and press down with your fingers. Bake until golden brown – about 20 or so minutes.

Meanwhile, make the curd. Whisk together eggs, additional yolks, additional 1/2 cup suagr, cornstarch, lemon zest and juice. Pour the curd over the golden short bread and bake for another 30 or so minutes. Allow to cool – be patient – allow them to cool! Then cut into small squares (smaller than you think – it’s zesty!). Top with slivers of candied kumquats.

Candied Kumquats

  • 12 or so fresh kumquats (lord know where you find these outside of your neighbor’s trees in Florida)
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup water

Cut the kumquats crosswise into thin circles. Remove the seeds (if you have the patience – I didn’t). In a saucepan, add the water, sugar and kumquats. Bring to a simmer, allow the sugar to dissolve and reduce to low. Cook for thirty minutes. Cool in a jar and they’ll keep for a month!

Happy 2012! My NYE Recap

3 Jan

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2011 in review

1 Jan

The WordPress.com stats helper monkeys prepared a 2011 annual report for this blog.

Here’s an excerpt:

The concert hall at the Syndey Opera House holds 2,700 people. This blog was viewed about 37,000 times in 2011. If it were a concert at Sydney Opera House, it would take about 14 sold-out performances for that many people to see it.

Click here to see the complete report.

Happy New Years Eve & 500th MMoM Post

31 Dec

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I’ve been so busy prepping for my New Years Eve Party on Mendenhall I havent had anytime to share a recipe for my 500th post on MMoM! But as this holiday celebrates the many things to look forward to in 2012 – it’ll include many many more recipes. Wishing ya’ll a happy, healthy, warm and safe New Year’s Eve from Mendenhall Street!

 

Lemon Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust

29 Dec

My parent’s neighborhood is full of citrus trees. There actually used to be many more but last year’s freeze hurt several – including my favorite sour orange tree (no more Cuban marinades this year). Still though, you can find meyer lemons, limequats, kumquats, grapefruits, calamondins and more from one yard to the next. My mother and I have the tendency to walk from house to house picking fruit (I brought back a car load on Tuesday!). No one ever seems to mind considering everyone has more fruit than they know what to do with. When there is such amazing fruit, it’s hard not to include as much of it in the Christmas menu as possible. I found this simple recipe for Lemon Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust using my iPhone Epicurious App – in full laziness while laying on the couch chatting with my Mom. We both agreed it sounded delicious and I sent my Mom to Judy’s and Debbie’s yards to harvest some meyer lemons and limequats.

Beware – this recipe is HUGE! I had so much extra filling that I ended up making a couple tiny cheesecakes in addition to this one. You could cut back – or just treat your friends and neighbors with some small cheesecakes (I believe in karma and this is a good way to stock up!). This recipe is very easy – plus one of the fluffiest cheesecakes I’ve made. I doubled the lemon juice because I thought it needed an extra kick – feel free to add as much as you think tastes good. This was so good that my sister, Maggie, is making it for her New Years Eve party! How are you celebrating?

Lemon Cheesecake with Gingersnap Crust from Bon Appetit March 2005

Crust

  • 2 cups ground gingersnap cookies
  • 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted

Filling

  • 5 8-ounce packages cream cheese, room temperature
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 7 large eggs
  • 3 cups (24 ounces) sour cream
  • 2 tablespoons (packed) finely grated lemon peel
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (I added 4 tablespoons)

For crust: Preheat oven to 350°F. Stir cookie crumbs and butter in medium bowl until evenly moistened. Press mixture onto bottom of 9-inch-diameter removable-bottom cheesecake pan with 3-inch-high sides. Bake crust until deep golden, about 12 minutes. Cool completely. Reduce oven temperature to 325°F.

Stack 3 large sheets of foil on work surface. Place same cake pan in center. Gather foil snugly around pan bottom and up sides to waterproof.

For filling: Using electric mixer, beat cream cheese in large bowl until smooth and fluffy. Gradually beat in sugar, then salt. Beat in eggs, 1 at a time. Beat in sour cream, grated lemon peel, and lemon juice. Pour filling into pan.

Place wrapped cake pan in large roasting pan. Pour enough hot water into roasting pan to come halfway up sides of cake pan. Bake cake until filling is slightly puffed and moves only slightly when pan is shaken gently, about 1 hour 25 minutes. Remove cake pan from water bath; remove foil. Cool cake in pan on rack 2 hours. Chill uncovered until cold; cover and keep chilled at least 1 day and up to 2 days.

Cut around pan sides; carefully loosen pan bottom from sides and push up pan bottom to release cake.

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Sunshine State Christmas 2011

28 Dec

I’m back to North Carolina after another wonderful Christmas holiday in the Sunshine State with my family. As I mentioned on Monday, it was unseasonably warm in Florida this year – around 83 and sunny – and reminded me of the Christmas we spent in the front yard on our new roller blades. Many years have passed since our time in wrist-guards and knee-pads. Now, all approaching and surpassing our 30s, all four cousins spent our time catching up over glasses  (hey! that’s plural) of champagne and many laughs. My sister came in from Denver, cousin Alina from Berkley and cousin Callie, and her partner Eli, were in from Austin – amazing that we all are so spread apart. Nothing beats catching up with my family and especially hearing and telling stories with my grandfather.

For our Christmas lunch, my family prepared some of our favorite holiday treats with lots of seasonal citrus, avocados and seafood from Florida. Most of the recipes I’ve already shared throughout the years but I did make a new cheesecake this year with lemons from my mom’s trees. I’ll share the recipe tomorrow. My sister, Maggie, is a great forager and spent Christmas morning outside picking mistletoe, flowers and citrus to both decorate the table and add to salads and dressings. We both worked on assembling a beautiful table for 11 family members. Isn’t it just beautiful?! Here is our menu – I’ll catch you up on cheesecake tomorrow.

Hope ya’ll had a nice holiday. What did you cook?

Thompson Family Sunshine State Christmas Menu 2011 

  • Avocado and Grapefruit Salad
  • Prime Rib
  • Shrimp Scampi
  • Hasselback Potatoes
  • Yorkshire Pudding
  • Sautéed Rapini
  • Chocolate Mousse
  • Lemon Ginger Snap Cheesecake

Merry Mullet Mania

26 Dec

There is nothing more merrier (to me) than mullet  on the Gulf Coast of Florida. As my grandfather says,”its an acquired taste.” Not many folks outside of Northwest Florida would indulge in such a cheap and pungent fish. Mullet was my favorite food growing up (I once ate the last mullet dinner Cedar Key, FL as a child) and I continue to indulge everytime I’m home in Florida. This Christmas, I had both fried mullet on the Withlachoochee River at my grandfather’s house and smoked in the backyard at my parent’s home.

Here are some Instagram photos (follow me at ModonMendenhall) I took between Inglis, Florida and Gainesville, Florida on a road trip my cousin Alina and I took  in my Mom’s red VW convertible and my Dad’s backyard smoking operation. 85 degrees and sunny on Christmas is hard to beat. And, so is Gulf Coast mullet. I won’t share the family recipes because I’m sure you won’t dare try it.

 

 

Baked Brie with Sauteed Cremini and Chanterelle Mushrooms

23 Dec

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My friend Stephanie, who has been popping up frequently in my N&R columns, has recently accepted the position of Director of the Greensboro Children’s Museum Edible Schoolyard!! I’ll miss beeping her through our inter-office phone system but I’m thrilled to work with her at the Schoolyard.What an exciting and honorable position.  I had some of our mutual former and current office girlfriends over on Thursday night for a celebratory “whine and wine.” I’m typically not one for a potluck but the season is hectic and I asked everyone to bring a snack. I’m so glad I did because everything was delicious. I made a very quick baked brie and topped it with sauteed cremini and chanterelle mushrooms. Served it with a baguette from Loaf in Downtown Greensboro and plenty of wine. This was delicious and easy – I made it in less than 30 minutes and it was hot when everyone arrived. Keep this in your side pocket for last minute celebrations.

Baked Brie with Sauteed Cremini and Chanterelle Mushrooms

  • 1 round brie in wooden box
  • 1/2 container of both cremini and chanterelle mushrooms, torn and sliced
  • 1 glove garlic
  • butter
  • olive oil
  • salt and pepper

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Unwrap the brie, discard the top of the wooden container and slice off a thin layer of the cheese. Put the cheese bake into the bottom part of the wooden container. Bake on a cookie sheet in the oven for about 20 minutes or until bubbling. Meanwhile, slice the cremini mushrooms and tear the chanterelle mushrooms until small pieces. Sauté in a skillet with a mix of butter and olive oil. One beginning to brown, add the garlic and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove the cheese from the oven – if you can peal off the side of the container – and top with mushroom mixture. Serve with crackers or bread.

Hasselback Potatoes with Rosemary

22 Dec

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Lately I’ve been scrapping every surface of my brain for new potato recipes. I’ve got a lot of standby recipes for almost every variation of the potato but it’s always fun to discover a new trick in the kitchen. I saw the “hasselback” potato on television the other day and thought I’d try it. These are what happens when a roasted potato meets a baked potato – a quicker version of a baked potato with the fun crunch of a roasted potato – really no complaints. You could certainly top these with sour cream but we ate them right out of the oven. There really isn’t much of a recipe – I picked out smaller yukon gold potatoes, cut the bottom off to make an even surface, sliced several parallel slits into each potato top making sure not to slice completely through and topped with olive oil, salt, pepper and rosemary from the garden. We roasted them for about 30 to 45 minutes in an oven at 375 degrees. Depending on the size of the potato they could take more or less time. Poke them with a knife to make sure they are tender throughout before serving. Or steal one and test it yourself – that’s the perk of the cook.

I’m just crazy over how fun these look. And, of course they taste good too.

Moonshine stokes brain with ideas for Christmas cocktails (N&R 12.21.11)

21 Dec

‘Tis the season for family traditions and—well let’s be honest— sometimes family transgressions! I’m referring to the family traditions that are much more controversial than sipping Brandy Alexanders with grandfather in the piano room on Christmas morning. We’re talking, hushed whispers about a cousin’s run in with and subsequent flight from the law, controversial. As the folks at the Piedmont Distillers say, “few family recipes carry a jail sentence.” We all have our secrets.

Several weeks ago, my friend Stephanie and I took a road trip 25 miles north of Downtown Greensboro to visit the quaint and quiet center of Madison, North Carolina. At the end of the main thruway, near Bob’s Restaurant and a variety of antique stores, the folks at Piedmont Distillers have been quietly churning up Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine, Midnight Moon and a variety of colorful, fruity moonshines for the past nine years. And this time, it’s legal.

We spent our afternoon with Joe Michalek, Founder and President of Piedmont Distillers, touring the facility, talking science and the South, and (twisting our arms) tasting a bit of ‘shine.

You’ll be surprised to know that Joe isn’t a Southerner. He grew up in Manhattan and left a 300 dollar-a-month rent-controlled apartment in Lenox Hill to head South for the otherwicked Southern industry of tobacco. It was then that Joe started running into ‘shine and wondered why no one had tried to sell such a mysterious product to the masses. After years of research, compliance with the government and serendipitously finding the only legal distillery in the state, he opened Piedmont Distillers.

Joe’s an ad guy, a city boy turned “Southern by the grace of god,” with a unique sense for niche industries. In just the last year, profits at Piedmont Distillers have increased 200%. You could say it has to do with the overwhelming trendiness of the Southern food scene or just plain hard work – either way, Joe’s making it happen. And after sampling all seven varieties of the triple-distilled corn liquor, we know he’s living the dream of every bootleg Southerner.

I returned home from Madison with an urge to make a Catdaddy Corn Liquor Cocktail for Christmas. ‘Tis the season, right? Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine smells like pure vanilla extract and tastes likeChristmas, with hints of nutmeg and cinnamon. In the spirit of keeping things close to home, I cheated and purchased Homeland Creamery’s Eggnog, spiked it with Catdaddy Moonshine and dusted it with fresh nutmeg. For all you with an affection toward Tennessee bourbon, it’s time to try something in our neck of the woods. This blubbery concoction, with nine grams of fat and 80 proof alcohol, must be paired with something similarly decedent yet savory.

My Candied Bacon & Cheddar Shortbread is just that—a variation on the traditional southern cheese straw with the hint of modern candied bacon. This combination is full of tradition, yet appeals to those brave enough to risk a little harmless transgression—kind of like Joe’s ‘shine!

Candied Bacon & Cheddar Shortbread

  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon pepper
  • 2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, plus extra for garnish
  • 3 tablespoons butter, cold and cut into small cubes
  • 1 cup cheddar cheese, grated
  • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon milk
  • 4 pieces thick cut bacon
  • 4 tablespoons brown sugar

Heat the oven to 350. Arrange bacon slices on top tin foil and sprinkle with one tablespoon brown sugar per slice. Bake until the bacon is cooked and the sugar has caramelized. Watch this closely as it can burn quickly. Allow bacon to cool.

In a food processor, mince candied bacon. Add flour salt, pepper and rosemary – pulse together. Gradually add in the butter until the mixture becomes a coarse meal. Add the cheese and pulse. Slowly add the milk until the dough comes together. Put the dough on a floured surface and shape it into a 2 inch log. Wrap in plastic and chill overnight. When ready to bake, slice the log into 1/4 inch crackers – or roll out and cut with your favorite holiday cutter. Bake at 325 degrees until golden and firm.

Triple-Distilled, Double Local Piedmont Moonshine Egg Nog

  • Catdaddy Carolina Moonshine
  • Homeland Creamery Egg Nog
  • Fresh Nutmeg

You choose the proportions – just respect the ‘shine!

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